Stand in the Tunis medina in the middle of the morning, and the city hits you all at once. The vaulted, stone-roofed souks are strictly divided by trade, the air smells heavily of jasmine and raw leather, and at the absolute core of the maze sits the great Zitouna Mosque. Listed by UNESCO in 1979 as one of the world’s first World Heritage sites, it is an intense, medieval Arab city. But it is only one layer of the capital. Tunis is actually three cities laid side by side: the old medina; the French ville nouvelle (new town) radiating outward from Avenue Habib Bourguiba with its colonial art-nouveau facades; and, out along the coast via the light-rail line, the ancient, scattered suburbs of Carthage.
The Reality of Carthage
The most famous site in Tunis requires a massive adjustment of expectations. If you go to Carthage expecting a preserved, Pompeii-style city with intact streets, you will be disappointed. What you will actually find are scattered, suburban ruins sitting quietly between expensive modern villas.
The reason for this absence is the history itself. In 146 BC, Rome famously razed the Punic city to the ground, deliberately destroying the empire that dared to rival it, and eventually built a Roman city directly on top of the rubble. Over the subsequent centuries, builders quarried the remaining stone to construct Tunis itself. That absence is the entire point. When you stand at the massive, ruined columns of the Antonine Baths with the Mediterranean Sea behind them, or look out from Byrsa Hill, you understand exactly what the Roman decree “Carthago delenda est” (Carthage must be destroyed) actually meant in practice. You visit Carthage for the landscape and the idea of the erased empire, rather than for intact buildings.
The Bardo Mosaics
The art that did survive the Roman era is kept indoors. The Bardo Museum holds one of the world’s greatest collections of Roman mosaics, famously including the “Virgil” mosaic, a defining portrait of the poet. The museum has endured years of closure recently but has now reopened; check the current opening times locally before you travel out to it.
The Blue-and-White Village
Further out along the coast sits Sidi Bou Said, a cliffside village famous for its blindingly white walls and uniform blue doors. It photographs like an ancient myth, but the reality is more recent and highly constructed. The strict blue-and-white palette was actually formalised in the early twentieth century, heavily driven by Baron d’Erlanger, a French-British painter and musicologist whose grand palace, Ennejma Ezzahra, still anchors the village. Today, it functions perfectly as a scenic café stop: order a mint tea with pine nuts and a bambalouni (a hot, sugar-coated doughnut), take your photos, and appreciate the aesthetic for exactly what it is.
The Living City
Back in the centre, the city runs on its own rhythm. The café culture spills out under the art-nouveau theatre on Avenue Bourguiba. The TGM light-rail train rattles out to La Goulette, where locals go for fresh fish. The food is sharp and distinct: try harissa (the chilli paste so foundational it was granted UNESCO intangible heritage status in 2022), or a bowl of lablabi, a heavy, warming chickpea-and-bread soup built for workers. The soundtrack to all of this is the quiet call of the men selling small bouquets of jasmine on the streets.
Walking through the medina involves a gentle, persistent hustle. The classic invitation to visit “the terrace with the best view” almost inevitably ends inside a carpet shop. Treat it with good humour; say no politely if you are not buying, and keep walking. It is simply the texture of the city, not a threat.
Many visitors—including US, UK, EU, and Canadian citizens—can currently enter Tunisia visa-free for short tourist stays. However, entry rules change, so check current requirements carefully before you book.
To understand the scale of time here, ride the TGM train back from Sidi Bou Said at dusk with a sprig of jasmine in hand, or catch the last light hitting the lonely columns of the Antonine Baths. The empire may have been erased, but it still dictates the view.
FAQ
Is Carthage worth visiting?
Yes, but you must manage your expectations. Go to experience the landscape, the coastal setting, and the profound idea of the erased city, particularly at Byrsa Hill and the Antonine Baths. Do not go expecting an intact Roman town.
How do I get to Sidi Bou Said?
It is an easy half-day trip from central Tunis. Simply take the cheap, reliable TGM light-rail train that runs from the city centre out along the coast.
When is the best time to visit Tunis?
Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. The summer months are blisteringly hot and humid, while winter is generally mild but can be quiet and rainy.
Do I need a visa for Tunisia?
Many nationalities, including citizens of the US, UK, EU, and Canada, currently enjoy visa-free entry for short tourist stays. Always check the official requirements for your specific passport before booking.
